If the tourist hordes laying siege to Guilin have you scaling its towering limestone peaks, head 80 km south downriver by boat, bus or taxi to Yangshuo. Shouldered by the Li River, Yangshuo town and the surrounding Yangshuo county are home to unworldly karst pinnacles, rich rice-paddy farmland and mellow villages linked by crisscrossing waterways, small roads and backcountry paths.
All this makes Yangshuo ideal for cycle tours, hiking, rock climbing, rafting, caving, kayaking and much more—nearly all of it outdoors, including Impression of Liu Sanjie, a choreographed multimedia dance extravaganza directed by filmmaker Zhang Yimou, creator of the 2008 Beijing Olympics Opening Ceremony. Hundreds of dancers and singers perform against a backdrop of dramatic karst towers soaring above the river, everything rippling with colors cast by an intricate lightshow.
But the real point to Yangshuo is the countryside where you’ll find its best natural attractions. Scenic highlights include Green Lotus Peak, Moon Hill, Yangdi Village and the Yulong River, a tributary of the Li that winds through a green karst wonderland as flotillas of bamboo pleasure rafts drift along on its surface for a distance before leaving the rest to farmers, fishermen, buffalo, waterfowl and the occasional kayaker.
Back in town at the end of the day, Yangshuo’s cafes, bars and restaurants fill up, keeping backpackers and climbers well fed and watered while dishing up a suprising range of international fare alongside local specialties. Visitors quickly discover the West Street (Xi Jie) pedestrian zone , where accommodations are to be found along with restaurants, bars, souvenir shops and booking offices for river tours, rock climbing expeditions, balloon rides and much more.
All of this does come with its price, of course. Although Yanghshuo affords escape from the crowds if you look hard enough, you’ll want to keep your elbows sharp—1.5 million tourists descend upon it each year, making National holidays particularly crowded and expensive. Off-peak periods are far more reasonable, helping the region keep its backpacker bona fide, but prices for tourists are significantly inflated and you’re expected to haggle for nearly everything.
History
There seems to be an old saying for just about every inch of China worth the visit. Guilin and Yangshuo are no exception: “Guilin’s scenery is the best under heaven, Yangshuo’s scenery is the best in Guilin.” So there you have it.
All superlatives aside, Yangshuo’s recorded history goes back at least 1,400 years, though the area has known human settlement for many more. Guangxi’s rugged landscape, combined with frequent rains and plentiful groundwater, has made it both an attractive place to farm and a good one to escape authority. These qualities resulted in a land where imperial Chinese settlement gained footholds along navigable rivers—starting as early as the Qin Dynasty (221-206 BC) but not really taking firm hold until the Sui Dynasty (581-618 AD)—while ceding control of the back country and highlands to various non-Han Chinese natives, including the Miao, Dong, Yao and Zhuang peoples.
By the time of the Tang Dynasty (618-907), imperial control over the region had been bolstered by canal projects linking the region’s fertile lands to northern markets via the Yangzi (Yangtze) River. Still, Yanghshuo remained something of an economic backwater, even as it gained fame among poets and painters for its extraordinary topography.
Since the region’s administrative divisions were set up centuries ago, Yangshou County and its town have been subsidiary to the larger urban center Guilin; today, the two cities are linked in most people’s minds as the terminal points on the classic Li River cruise. Along with tourism, the region remains a major agricultural region that produces vast amounts of rice as well as chili peppers, pomelo and other subtropical delicacies.
In recent years, Yangshuo, home to some 300,000 souls, has become a backpacker hotspot as China has opened up to the outside world. Since the early 1980s, it’s developed at a steady pace without losing too much of its low-key charm while gaining much in range and style of accommodations, restaurant culture and activities.
Climate
The best time of year to be in Yangshuo is between April and October. The subtropical climate makes for rain and humidity all year round; summers are generally the wettest and lushest. They are also quite hot, averaging 28°C (83°F).
Expect frequent afternoon showers in the summer months, and be sure to drink plenty of water and use sunscreen when out and about. Winter brings moderate temperatures (8°C (46 °F)) and rain.
Yangshuo is at its greenest towards the end of spring and it remains verdant through summer and into early fall; this is also when the Li and Yulong rivers run highest and clearest (the Yulong is generally clean enough to swim, while the larger Li has a reputation for pollution).
Always keep in mind when exploring the area that heavy rains can fall at any time, causing flash flooding and loosening soil, making things slippery and unstable.
